Wednesday, November 29, 2006

Thanksgiving






Nice waterfall. I bought the hat on the side of the road to Douala for a dollar.







Ally and I got a fishing lesson from Reese. We wanted to eat them for thanksgiving dinner. Tilapia. We used cheese rind. I ended up catching a young plantain.




Thanksgiving was a lovely melange of booze, excellent turkey (I helped baste!), par baked pumpkin pie and kitchen debauchery. We stayed at a bed and breakfast near Yune Lee’s post. Apparently arranged by a bunch of French ex-pats, it was the most genuinely nice little place I have stayed at in all of my Cameroon travels. It was only that I was fairly gimpy at the time.

My preparations for Katie Phinney’s June 2007 wedding, in which I will be a bridesmaid, went awry last Thursday. While checking my running form via my shadow, I missed a step and skidded across some large crumbled rocks that composed the “shoulder" of the road. I stood up laughing, but no one around me laughed. I was missing a piece of knee skin the size of a nickel. Interesting. No one came over to help the stumbling, passing-out, bloody white lady trying to cross the road. I wouldn’t have helped either.

Mostly healed now… just in time to be part of "Black Vampire 2". The movie will feature Reese “Charles” Baird and myself, as well as Matt Richmond as “the doctor.” Reese will be some kind of mystic and I think I will be a vampire killer. Reese has been invited to shoot scenes in Italy (not me... the say i'm too mean). Our director has been invited to an African Film Festival in LA. His name in the new movie script is "Storm"... my own name is "Sharon." Details to come.

Wednesday, November 08, 2006

Cameroon is Fun



It's fun watching the people run from the scary juju... Reese included.





Pre-gaming for the jujus.




Bowing to greet the Fon...





A little embarrassed having prostrated in front of so many notables... running back from greeting the Fon.


Jill showed up in Douala after very nearly not making her plane in New York some 20 hours before (her roommates boyfriend locked her out of her apartment and she left her yellow WHO vaccination card in her car in New Jersey). I had had a beer and was elatedly watching the planes land (its not something we see every day in Cameroon). The next day we made the 11 hour trip back to Bafut (it shouldn’t be 11 hours, but it was good that Jill was able to get a taste of the transport woes).

Yesterday, we were fortunate enough to have been invited to an enormous Bafut death celebration. The Fon of Mankaninkon, a village on the way to my old home of Akofunguba, had died years before and they were officially installing his son as the new chief. The paramount Fon of Bafut was there, all the jujus and other notables, queens and about 1000 of Bafut’s population. We drank beer and were seated front-row for the festivities. Rains disturbed a bit, but we were able to see the mean juju (the one with the dark helmet made of dead African’s hair) accept his goat-bait at a distance that hardly seemed safe.

Jill’s impression of the event yesterday: “I thought the juju was going to get me. I just felt bad for the goat. They kept body slamming it… like WWF.”

Monday, November 06, 2006

chili cheese fries


chili cheese fries
Originally uploaded by rbairdpccam.
Thanks to Dr. Sara Walker of Columbia, MO we were able to put Sonic Drive in to shame. Still trying to perfect the Tater Tot Process.

muddy shoe


muddy shoe
Originally uploaded by rbairdpccam.
Sometimes it's hard to be a woman.

slug


slug
Originally uploaded by rbairdpccam.
A hadsome little guy leaving a mucus trail all over the banister.

Cattle punching


Cattle punching
Originally uploaded by rbairdpccam.
This guy was just hanging out near the Government Primary School in Bafut. Cattle rustling is still punishable by death here.

Thursday, November 02, 2006

How for Shakira?

Sitting at a bar not too long ago, my friends and I were approached by a man with a foot and a half high stack of cd’s in his hands. His backpack, I’m sure, was also full. This gentleman is a part of an enormous network of other gents and boys in Cameroon who sell things off of their bodies. Blankets, machetes, light bulbs, cheap watches, Scotch eggs, pagne, leather flip flops with pink-and-green-dyed cowhide accents are among the goods that one can purchase (not without a fight) while “street shopping.”

The guy begins laying out cd’s that he thinks I’d probably be interested in. They know not to push the Cameroonian makossa or anything from Cote d’Ivoire. They have us pegged. They know what westerners like. Pirated Backstreet Boys and Don Williams cd’s litter the tabletop. No, no, no… Westlife? No. I probably laughed at that point. The seller has an “ah-ha!” moment and he coaxes a disk out from the center of his stack. Something he knows I’ll buy. “How for Shakira?”

Shakira, obviously not. I can think of one sorority roommate that I had that might have liked Shakira… but she seemed to have a twisted taste in music (also a foaming-at-the-mouth-fan of Hillary Duff, Christina Aigulara and Jessica Simpson). Other than short little Amy Schneider, Shakira’s fans are limited to girls in their tweens and the occasional gay man. How does America’s pop culture become so skewed in the flight to Africa that individuals believe that we really adore Celine Dion?

This is not limited to music, of course. What’s hot in Cameroon is what they believe the “white man country” lives on. White bread, for example. After whining to another volunteer about the overabundance of Cameroonian bread containing less nutritive value than a Kleenex, she provided a theory. The picturesque bread of the USA has long been WonderBread, though this is not what people typically choose to eat (that is, people who are not my 21 year-old brother). However, through some Norman Rockwell-like catalog, the idea somehow got here. Despite the fact that the bread is terrible, people buy it because it might be representative of Western “hotness”. Just a theory.

There are other, more obscure examples. Fiber-optic-light flower arrangements, for example. Very popular among the well-to-do crowds. Cameroon might be the capital of in-no-way-natural-colored silk flowers. For some strange reason that may not have any connection to this topic, motorcycle taxis like to hang shoe horns all over the bikes. Young men believe that tight-in-the-thigh, low-rise women’s jeans are all the rage (I mean on them… accompanied with a very tight, sometimes mesh top). Stuffed animals adorn dashboards. Axe body spray abounds… in overpowering quantities. Movies are often ridiculous displays of guns, money and weeping…. I actually like these sometimes (a copy of “Black Vampire” starring Reese Baird and Kelsey Cornelius as “victims” will be coming back to the states in about a week). Romance novels are the primary selection for those who read books for pleasure. I shouldn’t get into Christianity… I wont, really. But it doesn’t quite “come over” in one piece.

The tackiness of it all isn’t really very sad… to us, its hilarious. To be reminded on a daily basis that, for the most part, this is what Africa thinks we’re all about… it makes me glad to have to opportunity to illustrate what Westerners are more often like. But for them, there is a genuine fondness of these (often chintzy) things…and I respect that (unless I get to know someone… they I argue why Westlife isn’t a real band).

The sadness of it sets in only when the rich local culture or beautiful native product is displaced by a poorly manufactured, wrongly assumed Western one. Silk flowers? People can run outside and find beautiful hydrangeas, pointsettias and hibiscus growing at any time of the year. Coca-cola? Pick up a fresh passion fruit (or go to the juice store on commercial ave and drink heaven). How for Shakira? Shakira no fine. Give me some nicely recorded ballophone or an old pa playing the mouth violin. That’s something worth one dollar.